Stinky's

My first attempt at a restaurant review.....

While vacationing at my parents’ house in Santa Rosa Beach, FL, my husband and I have remarked that, even though we are in a fairly rural area, there are quite a lot of really good restaurants that line these sleepy, sandy beach roads. Our dinner last night was so pleasantly surprising, I knew that I would have to add it this experience to my blog.

Admittedly, I was skeptical of the recommendation as soon as I heard the name. Stinky’s is not exactly a name I would attach to a seafood restaurant. The sign tells you that “with a name like that, it has to be good”, YIKES! Who thought of that?? Even though we had heard how fantastic it is, I just couldn't get past that ridiculous name. The building itself resembled a couple of modular homes attached in phases – on a cinder block foundation - I walked in with trepidation. We requested the back screened-in porch to seat the five of us and I felt right at home with the surrounding frog and cricket orchestra. It was the sound of real coastal Florida, a nostalgic sound for me. I grew up in Florida and I often miss that lazy summer sound. The wine list was the first real sign that we might be in for more than I had bargained for, it is extensive and the prices are very reasonable. Our waiter, Matt, told us that the chef/owner, Jim Richard, a CIA graduate, wants to move wine and prices bottles $10 – $15 under most other restaurants. This was another plus and things are really starting to look up. We decided on an Oregon Pinot Noir. (Cloudline, 2006, $42).

Soon we learn that the three chefs in the kitchen are all CIA grads. I certainly was not expecting to hear that, my earlier skeptisism was really beginning to wane. Maybe this will be as good as they say? Once the wine was poured and our orders were in our waiter enlightens us on other local restaurants that we should visit and also that he runs a kayaking outfit in the area. He’s super nice and a delight to talk to. Even as our dinners arrive, he stays to chat and though this could be annoying somewhere else, we all enjoy the conversation.

Everyone devoured their meal and there are a few reasons why it's so good: all the fish served is caught locally, vegetables are organic (or hydroponic) and come from within 100 miles of the restaurant – wow! I ordered grouper, cobia, (my husband), wahoo, (my sister) and fried shrimp basket, (dad). My mom has a spinach salad and a bite of everyone’s meal. The fish we ordered blackened (It can be fried or grilled as well), it's an earthy mix of spices - mainly paprika - which doesn’t over power the delicate flavors of the fish. Those wonderful local and organic vegetables are sautéed without any fuss and my cheese grits made me want to do somersaults. I had to order a side of hush puppies, (fried cornbread fritters) for my husband, who had never had the Southern delicacy. More, please!

It's clear that chef Jim Richard and company know what they are doing, the food is simple, yet subltly sophisticated for a family-style restaurant. We all left perfectly satisfied, and it occurs to me as we get into the car that Stinky’s might actually be the perfect name for this restaurant because with name like that, it HAS to be good. And it really is.

Stinky's Fish Camp
5994 County Rd. 30 - A
Santa Rosa Beach, FL 32459
www.Stinkysfishcamp.com

Looking for a place to vacation? Try Santa Rosa Beach in Florida's Gulfcoast. It is true coastal Florida and is untouched by corporate crap, (there is a Starbucks). My parents' have a house in a development called Watercolor and it's quite special. Houses are available for rent and there is a fabulous hotel, The Watercolor Inn, offering rooms starting at about $350/night. The beach here has sugar-white sand and sapphire blue water. Everything is first-class with somehow still capturing a soulful, beachy classic coastal vibe. (Skip summer months, waaay too hot!)

SPRING!

I am a few days early, but the weather today has gotten me excited about the upcoming seasonal change, (April 20th). This is my favorite time of year, and I can't help but anticipate the new offerings. So, hide that crock - pot and Dutch Oven and break out the salad bowls and simple plates, because this is the season for impromptu cooking and ice cream making! Just have fun with it!


Chicken Sausage with Peppers and Polenta

Here's a recipes that takes no time at all. I used already prepared polenta, (the kind in a clear plastic tube, usually in the grains section). Making polenta from scratch is always an option, but it's time consuming and, frankly, this tastes really good. This whole meal can come together in under half an hour.


4 julienned bell peppers, any colors - mix it up!
1 onion, julienned
2 pkgs Organic chicken sausage, I like Italian style, sliced in 1/2" coins
3 garlic cloves
salt and pepper
1 pkg cooked polenta, sliced into 1/2 " inch cuts
extra virgin olive oil

You need two large saute pans, one for the sausage and peppers and the other for the polenta. Fire these up at the same time, on med high heat. Add olive oil to each pan in equal amounts, (maybe a touch more for the polenta).

For the peppers, onions and sausage:
Throw in onions, peppers and garlic to hot pan, season with salt and pepper. Cook on med heat for about 5 minutes, or until everything looks wilted. Add sausage and continue to cook on medium heat. The sausage will begin to take on a lovely golden hue - you are pretty good here. Turn down to low and just let all this hang out until polenta is ready.

For Polenta:
Make sure oil is hot when you carefully add polenta coins to the pan. Lower heat to medium. Let them cook for about 10 minutes on each side, don't try to flip too soon. You will know when to flip becuase they will seperate from the pan easily.

To serve:
Place polenta coins on a platter and top with sausage and peppers.

NOTE:
Have any leftovers? Try this with scambled eggs in the morning!

Seared Scallops with Scarlet-Runners and Asparagus

The idea for this meal all started when I saw some heirloom Scarlet Runner beans at the store. They are so interesting, about the size of a lima, the skin is freckled, like a quail egg. I had never used them before, so I was curious to see how they would do in place of a white bean as a puree. I soaked the beans over night and cooked them the next day with some celery and onion. The flavor was great, however, I wasn't thrilled with the color, especially after I pureed them. Since I believe we eat with our eyes first - this choice was disappointing - I suggest substituting the beans for pureed celeriac, mashed potatoes or soft polenta.

Although the beans were a disappointment, everything else on the plate was fantastic. New to the Farmers' Market this week were asparagus and after seeing them, I had the whole meal realized. Scallops are always a great way to add some pizazz to a meal. They couldn't be any simpler to prepare.

Seared Scallops:

1 dozen scallops, rinsed and pat dry
salt and pepper
1 TBLS butter
1 TBLS extra virgin olive oil

Season scallops with salt and pepper.
In a large pan, heat oil and butter on medium high heat, almost to smoking point.
Add scallops and sear for 3-4 minutes, or until golden. Turn and repeat.

Serve over bed of pureed celeriac, mashed potatoes or soft polenta.

Sauteed Asparagus:
(This works best with fresh, pencil-thin asparagus.)

1-2 bunches thin asparagus
1 TBLS extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper

In a large saute pan, heat oil on medium heat. Add asparagus, and season with salt and pepper. Keep moving asparagus around to get an even saute. Allow asparagus to soften slightly and develop a slight char. Serve immediately.Yvette Roman Photography©, 2008.

Something Sweet

Another trip to the Farmer's Market inspired me to step out of my comfort zone and put on my bakers' hat. I have always loved carrot cake and after seeing all of the different varieties of carrots and their amazing colors, it seemed only logical to give in to my sweet tooth. These turned out super moist and the icing is pure decadence.
Adapted from Bon Appetit, September 1999.


Carrot Cake Cupcakes with Maple-Cream Cheese Icing

Cupcakes:
2 cups all purpose flour
2 tsp baking soda
1 tsp salt
1 tsp cinnamon
2 cups sugar
1 1/4 cups canola oil
4 eggs
3 cups grated carrot
1 1/4 cups chopped walnuts
2 TBLS minced, peeled ginger
Handful of golden raisins for garnish

Icing:
10 oz. cream cheese, room temp.
5 TBLS unsalted butter, room temp.
2 1/2 cups powdered sugar
1/4 cup pure maple syrup

For cake:
Preheat oven to 350. Line cupcake pan with liners. Set aside.
Whisk flour, baking soda, salt and cinnamon in a medium bowl.
Whisk sugar and oil in a large bowl until well blended.
Whisk eggs in 1 at a time to sugar and oil.
Add flour mixture to wet mixture and blend well.
Stir in carrots, ginger and nuts.
Fill liners a little past halfway.
Bake for about 25-30 minutes, or until tester inserted comes out clean.
Cool cakes completely before adding icing.

Icing:
Using an electric mixer, beat cream cheese and butter until light and fluffy.
Add powdered sugar and beat low until well blended.
Add maple syrup and blend completely.

Fill pastry bag fitted with a decorative tip and pipe icing in a circular motion, starting in the center and work outwards.
Top with golden raisins.

Yvette Roman© Photography, 2008.

Roasted Butternut Squash Soup

Roasting vegetables in the winter is a way to deepen the flavor and add a heartiness to every meal. My favorite winter soup is roasted butternut squash. As we are winding down this cold season, the squash are on their way out, however, the flavor of this squash was delightful and sweeter than I expected. It's so simple, all you need on hand is home-made vegetable broth. If you want to really add richness, take the time to make the vegetable stock first, using a few cubes of the butternut squash. Cooking is all about layering flavor each step and this is a way to accomplish that complexity of flavors. You will notice a much richer, full bodied soup. The end result is velvety, hearty with virtually no fat. Top it with roasted pepita seeds for a nice, crunchy texture.

For directions on making stock, see my post on homemade stocks - in this case, just add about a cup of 1 inch-cubed, and peeled butternut squash to the pot.

Heat oven to 400.
1 large, or 2 medium size butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1 inch cubes
drizzle of olive oil
salt and pepper
4 cups home-made vegetable stock
Roasted pepita seeds

In a large mixing bowl, drizzle olive oil over squash and toss to coat.
Lay squash out on a baking sheet and season with salt and pepper.
Roast in oven for about 30 minutes.
Make sure to rotate sqash every 10 minutes to get an even carmelization.
Transfer roasted squash to blender (you may have to do this in batches) and add enough stock to half-way cover squash. Blend - add liquid if needed. You want a velvety texture, keep adding stock until desired consistancy.
Top with roasted pepita seeds.

Yvette Roman© Photography 2008

Santa Monica Farmer's Market

The Wednesday Farmer's Market in Santa Monica is an event unlike any other market in Los Angeles. Hundreds of vendors and farmers set up early and draw a crowd of local chefs, tourists and people like me, who are just looking for inspiration for that nights' meal. The market epitomizes California cuisine and the emerging nation-wide green food movement by offering local, largely organic, seasonal fruits, vegetables, flowers, and meats. It's a welcomed escape from the grocery store and the truth is, everything tastes one thousand times better. Every time I go it seems, I find something that I have never seen before and I am always pleasantly surprised with the outcome. New to me this week were watermelon radish and heirloom cauliflower, which looks more like abstract sculpture than vegetable!



























Watermelon Radish and Feta Salad:

















To accomplish the thin cuts of radish, I use a mandoline. I know not every household has one as they can be expensive and tricky to operate. Investing in one isn't a bad idea, once you figure them out, you will love their versatility. You can buy a japanese mandoline, for about $20, they are simple to use and easy to find. The only downside is that you can't adjust the cut heights, so here, the cuts would be thinner. You can also cut the old fashion way, but that will be very time consuming and the cuts will not be as uniformed.

2 watermelon radish, about the size of a tennis ball, sliced on mandoline about 1/8" thick
1/4 red onion or shallot - sliced on mandoline, paper thin
drizzle of extra virgin olive oil
drizzle of local honey
1/4 cup good quality feta
a few sprigs fresh mint, torn for garnish
lime wedge
salt and pepper
serves 4

On a decorative plate, arrange sliced radish in a circular pattern, over-lapping each other in a spiral fashion.
In the center place onion and top that with crumbled feta
Drizzle with olive oil and honey and season with salt and pepper.
Garnish with mint and a squeeze of lime. Serve at room temp.

Chicken Breasts with Baby Shitakes


















3-4 Chicken breasts, skin on and bone in - rinsed, dried & seas
oned with salt and pepper.
1 cup flour in shallow dish.
1 TBLS butter
1 TBLS extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper
5 cloves whole, peeled garlic
1 cup baby shitake mushrooms (any mushroom would work, a wild blend would be great)
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup chicken broth - low simmer on stove-top.

Heat oil and butter in a large skillet on medium high heat.
Dredge chicken breasts in flour and shake off excess, place skin side down and sear for 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Turn over and sear another 5 minutes. Add wine, cook down 3 minutes, add garlic and cook another few minutes. Lower heat to medium and add mushrooms. Shake pan and allow mushroom to settle on bottom of pan. (Don't salt the mushrooms, it will draw moisture out and they will get soggy. Wait until chicken is cooked all the way through and season then with salt and pepper.) After about 5 minutes, add hot chicken broth and bring to a steady, low simmer, cover pan and cook until chicken juices run clear, about 15 minutes. In the last few minutes, uncover pan and reduce pan juices a bit. Now you can season with s & p.

Roated Cauliflower with Mustard-Caper Butter

















This is THE best way to prepare cauliflower, it works equally well with any kind of cauliflower or brussel sprouts. If using brussel sprouts, cut in half and trip off the base.

2 garlic cloves
2 tbls butter, softened to room temp
2 tsp dijon mustard
1/4 cup capers, drained and rinsed
grated zest of 1 lemon
3 tbls chopped marjoram
black pepper
2 heads Romanesco cauliflower - white cauliflower will be fine, also.

1. Preheat oven to 375.
2. Make mustard-caper butter, pound the garlic with a half tsp salt in mortar until smooth.
Stir garlic into butter, with mustard, capers, lemon zest and marjoram. Season to taste with pepper.This can be done one day in advance, just bring to room temp before serving.
3. Cut cauliflower into bite-size pieces - arange on a baking sheet and toss in olive oil and salt and pepper. Roast for 30 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally to rotate florets.
4. Place roasted cauliflower in a bowl and add butter compound. Cover with tin foil and shake to mix butter around. Serve hot.

Adapted from "Local Flavors" by Deborah Madison.


Yvette Roman Photography© 2008

Kitchen Sink......

Each week, I save all ends and what-not from unused vegetables to give to the family. They take it to their vineyard and add it to the compost pile, or feed it to their chickens. As I was filling up the compost container today, I noticed a interesting combination of toss-outs -- carrot, onion, celery...... A classic culinary combination lies before me and it hits me, why am I not using these throw outs and making vegetable broth? I buy that awful boxed stock all the time!! Channeling the days where I would NEVER buy boxed stock, I quickly rumage through everything and throw it into a pot filled with water. I added fennel stalk, garlic and parsley stems. Finding a few fresh garlic cloves, a pinch of whole black peppercorns and salt, I turn it up and get a rolling boil. I'm feeling like a genius, my grandmother would be so proud of me!

NOTE: Making any stock is simple. Always start with carrot, onion and celery (known as mirepoix in the culinary world), and water. Add any common vegetable, staying away from any cruciferous vegetable, (cabbage family including broccoli, brussel sprouts, dark leafy greens, cauliflower, etc), as they can leave a bitter after taste. If you are planning on making a particular soup, like butternut squash, for example, make your stock and add some of the butternut squash you plan to use in the soup. This creates a deeper layer of flavoring and though subtle, can really make a difference in the end product.
Always cover the stock as it simmers. The longer you cook, the better the flavor, but 30 minutes will do - up to 2 hours. Be sure to add salt and whole peppercorns.
Store in a container with a tight fitting lid for up to 10 days and cool entirely before storing.
Shrimp stock : mirepoix + water + shells from peeled shrimp
Chicken stock : mirepoix + water + whole chicken, fat trimmed and cavity emptied. Skim fat from time to time.

Ricotta, Spinach and Parmesan Tarts

If you are looking for some culinary inspiration, check out anything by Donna Hay. Her recipes are simple, yet elegant and the photographs are amazing. She has a magazine that comes out a few times a year as well. I just love her food - here is a quick tartlett you can serve along a salad or soup, or snack on any time. Be sure to squeeze all liquid out of spinach, otherwise these will be too moist and the result will suffer.

1 lb fresh ricotta
1/3 cup sour cream
pinch salt
1 egg, lightly beaten
cracked black pepper
pinch fresh nutmeg
1 lb fresh baby spinach
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
1/2 chopped toasted pine nuts
1 TBLS fresh herbs - I like parsley, chives and dill

Preheat oven to 350.
Process ricotta in food processor until smooth.
Place ricotta, salt, sour cream, egg, pepper and nutmeg in bowl and mix well.
Place spinach in dry saute pan and a TBLS of water and cook down, about 3 minutes. Chop and drain all liquid out of cooked spinach.
Add spinach, parmesan, pine nuts and herbs to ricotta mixture.
Spoon mixture into greased muffin pan and bake for about 30 minutes, or until golden.
Makes 8 - 12.
Adapted from Donna Hay Entertaining, 2003.

Chicken with 40 cloves of garlic

Seriously, 40 cloves! (Make it easier on yourself and buy peeled cloves.) I served this with a mixed herb and green salad.

1 3-4 lb chicken, cut into 8 pieces. At room temp, seasoned with salt and pepper.
2 TBLS extra virgin olive oil
1 TBLS butter
About 40 garlic cloves
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 chicken broth

In a deep skillet or dutch oven heat oil and butter. When fats are hot, but not smoking, add chicken skin side down and cook until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Turn over and repeat. Work in batches if necessary.
Reduce heat to medium and bury cloves under chicken to settle on bottom of skillet. Saute, shaking pan frequently, about 10 minutes. Allow garlic to brown, but not burn. Add wine and broth, scraping bottom of pan.
Cover and continue to cook until juices run clear. About 15-20 minutes. Serve chicken with garlic and pan juices.
Serves 4
Adapted from Alex Witchel, New York Times

Braised short ribs with bok choy

These short ribs were from a local cow to the Santa Ynez Valley. The family bought a 1/2 of a cow and it has gone a long way. I marinated these for 3 days!

MARINADE:
2 TBLS toasted sesame seeds, grind in spice grinder to a paste
1 cup soy sauce/shoyu
1/2 cup sesame oil
2 TBLS honey
2 TBLS sherry
2 TBLS minced garlic
2 TBLS minced fresh ginger
1 TBLS red pepper flakes
1 bunch scallions, chopped - use green and white parts

Marinade for 1 hour or up to 3 days

Preparation:
1 TBLS canola oil
1 TBLS butter
1 onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup red wine
1/2 chx or beef broth
salt and pepper

Heat oven to 325*.
In a large saute pan, heat 1 TBLS canola oil and sear each rib for about 5 min each side. (Be sure to have seasoned each side with salt a pepper.) It should get a nice carmilized color on it. Set aside.
In another saute pan, heat butter and saute onion and garlic on med-low until soft. Be careful to not burn garlic. Add wine and let reduce to half, add broth and allow to reduce by half. Place ribs in roasting pan and cover with above ingredients. Cover tightly with foil and allow to cook for 2-3 hours. The meat should be falling off the bone.
Seves 4 - 6.

BOK CHOY
3 heads bok choy - cleaned and cut in half, length-wise
1 TBLS canola oil
salt and pepper

In a large saute pan, heat oil. Add bok choy and season with salt and pepper. Saute on med-high heat until it becomes limp, about 7 minutes. You may want to add 1 TBLS water to help it cook down. It may help to do this in batches.

Chicken with olives, fennel, tomatoes and pearl onions. Along with sauteed brussel sprouts and pureed celeriac root.

This meal is quite elegant! I served this for the family when they had 2 VIP guests over. Everything is simple, the chicken is moist and the colors are great! I served this with a salad of arugula, endive and radicchio with shaved (high quality) parmesan and a light vinaigrette. This recipe serves 2-4 easily.

CHICKEN:
2 chicken breasts, skin and bone on
1 cup all purpose flour
1 TBLS butter
1 TBLS extra virgin o.o.
1 cup dry white wine
1 fennel bulb, julienne 1/2 inch
1/4 cup whole cherry tomatoes
1/2 cup whole, fresh pearl onions
2 cloves garlic, whole
1 1/2 cups chicken broth - hot

Rinse chicken and pat dry. Season with salt and pepper. Dredge chicken in flour and dust off excess. Heat butter and oil in a large saute pan until butter begins to brown. Place chicken skin side down and sear for 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Turn over and sear another 3 minutes. Add wine, cook down for 2 minutes. Add fennel, tomaotes, onions and garlic. Cook on med. heat until wine almost evaporated. Add hot chicken broth and bring to a slow simmer. Partially cover and cook for about 20 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through. If broth begins to evaporate, add more.

CELERIAC puree:
2 heads celeriac (celery root), peeled, large dice
1 yellow potato, peeled, large dice
1 TBLS butter
salt and pepper

In pot, place celeriac, potato and cover with salted water. Bring to boil until cooked through. About 10 mins. Drain. In food processor, blend with butter, season with salt and pepper.
Keep warm in 200* oven until service.

BRUSSEL SPROUTS:
1 lb brussel sprouts, julienned
1TBLS butter or olive oil. (Butter has better flavor here)

In a large saute pan, heat butter or oil on med heat. Add brussel sprouts and salt and pepper. Sauted for about 5-7 minutes, or until al dente.
Keep warm in 200* oven until service.

Corn and Lobster Chowder

This is WAY too easy for how incredibly good it is. Lobster is expensive, you may want to substitute shrimp or a hearty white fish (cod, halibut, scallop) in its place. Be sure to serve with crusty, toasty bread. Serves about 4.

1 TBLS butter
1 chopped onion
1 1/2 cup fresh corn
1 potato, peeled and diced
2 cup chicken broth
1/4 cup fresh salsa
1 lb cooked lobster meat
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 diced jalapeno
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
lime wedges for garnish

In a large pot, saute onions with butter on med-low heat until soft. 3-5 mins.
Add corn, potato and broth, bring to a simmer. Add lobster, cream and jalapeno and salsa.
Return to simmer for 5-7 minutes and add basil. (If you are using a substitute fish, add RAW fish along with corn, potato and broth - bring to simmer and cook 5-10 minutes). Serve with toasted crusty french bread and lime wedges.
Adapted from Gourmet Magazine